Barbecued, battered, boiled and baked: cookbook book for summer


Pulling back to explore her three dishes, they are all very heavy on grilled meats, herbs, fresh cheese, olives and cézanne-worthy fruits and vegetables, she writes, “where you can start to see the similarities Political boundaries emphasize division and difference. “Khan, who first loved the region on a family trip as a child, is a travel writer at heart, and every recipe is rooted in the true spirit of the place. A sheet pan pomegranate and sumek chicken is a Syrian doctor. , Who runs a restaurant on the Greek island of Lesvos. A halloumi and produce-rich salad takes advantage of Cyprus’s glorious bounty in late summer. The fish kebabs call him “crossing the border” and “a garlicky Greek potato sauce. With turkey fish using pickles “. And in a year without travel, it’s not hard to focus on photography that breaks the standard recipe shots: spices, olives, grapes, pomegranate sunlight spread in markets Is; streetscape in Istanbul and Athens; small cities set against the dramatic blue Mediterranean.

On the topic of cuisine that connects – in the introduction Rice (University of North Carolina, 120 pp., $ 20), Michael W. Twitty, a culinary historian, remembers a childhood favorite dish: her grandmother, born in Alabama, red rice, a spicy tomato-based paleau, which also serves as a tidy metaphor for the entire book. “If you follow that one dish through all the uncles and grandmothers that came before it,” he writes, “you will move from Alabama to South Carolina and then across the Atlantic,” eventually landing in Sierra Leone, where Jollof Rice , A predecessor of red rice, is still a staple of West African cuisine.

Twitty’s slim, filled volume is part of Savor the South, a series dedicated to recognizing the history of the region’s rich food landscape (see also: “Okra,” “Ham,” “Pecans” and “Peaches “), And here, he highlights the various ways” rice in the hands of slaves and slaves went south. ” He has the gift of presenting the historical in a way that is both accessible and personal. A recipe for Limpin ‘Susan, the okra-and-rice “staple from the coasts of West Africa to the coasts of the American South,” reads just like a Tuesday night dinner for a family dinner; A recipe for Afro-Creole dish Jambala is presented in three short paragraphs by a fellow chef, Wanda Blake; And Twitty herself shared her recipe for peanut (peanut) stew, which made it more appealing in the way it recalls her first trip to West Africa.

Fast forward to the modern-day American South, where fans line up for pork pulled on white bread at Rodney Scott’s Whole Hog BBQ, a Charleston restaurant that practically became the day it opened its doors. Open, it will be happy to know about this latest launch: Rodney Scott’s BBQ World: Every Day is a Good Day (Clarkson Potter, 224 pp., $ 29.99), Lolis Written with Eric Alley. But whether or not you have eaten at any of Scott’s restaurants (now there are three locations), the book will deliver.

Of course, there are old-school no-frills classics – with surprisingly small ingredients lists – such as Duke’s mayo and potato salad with boiled eggs, fried chicken, wings, smoked turkey breast, hush puppies and honey butter. Cornbread. What doesn’t make this book a one-note is the periodically frontal memoir section for Father’s-Day Grilling Primer where Scott, a James Beard Award-winning chef and pitmaster, describes growing up in Hemingway, S.C. When he was just 11 years old, cooking his first hog, Scott learned from his parents’ hard-driving tutelage, whose moe was, “When you’re old enough to walk, you get to work.” Become quite old. “

“You can’t boil those years down in a quick conversation,” they write, and what follows is a drill-down on every part of the barbecue process, from the construction of the pits (a different kind of recipe; you need Ho) to shop for things like 62 cinder blocks and seven length rebars to make barn barrels and choose the right wood. Only then you will learn how to cook the whole hog. For a certain type of reader, this is at the far end of the aspirational spectrum, but still, the value of knowing that you will never see that pulled pork sandwich order the same way again.

For those who think nothing of taking out the bloatrach while baking, there is no better gift from Mother’s Day or Father’s Day ZOË BAKES CAKES: Everything you need to know to create your favorite layers, bundles, loaves, and more (Ten Speed ​​Press, 272 pp., $ 30), By Zoe François, a Minneapolis-based pastry chef and teacher whose hypnotically photographed confection has received her Tremendous followings on instagram. Even the most novice bake-o-fob will be unable to resist flagging every page with a note that says “This one! This is for my birthday!” Before handing it over to someone else in the house to deal with. Fans will be happy to find a little how-to on all Zoë signatures: those uniquely graphic, cross-sectioned loaves and cupcakes with frosting and clouds of whipped cream; His edgy jerk (dancing) meringues; Cake topped with fresh flowers or remade into a fence made of candied carrots.

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