Where the Rare Citrus Grows
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Where the Rare Citrus Grows

As the Center of Late, which is not open to the public – has become a pilgrimage site for French chefs, patissiers, and fragrance-house noses, who often learn about it from their own suppliers; Many citrus trees can be traced to French farms behind seeds and seeds from the garden of San Giuliano. Pierre HaramThe masters of French macarons visit every summer, as it does Anne-Sophie Pick, The Valence-based three-Michelin-star chef, is ready to sample a mild, sweet Israeli pomelo or an acidic ancient Italian orange with a subtle vanilla smell.

While the institute does not compete with commercial producers, it is known for making gifts of rare varieties; Some chefs, like Pic, arrive with an empty bag. Back at her namesake restaurant, she plants a plate of honey-flavored Mercott Tanger with skin-free cherry tomatoes and crowns the meringue of her il floatant desserts with the zest of the American Wave Inglolo, the taste of its flowers being another grape. Is the result of breeding a grape-tangerine hybrid with. . These tasting campaigns at San Giuliano have inspired not only Pic’s menu but also other prominent French chefs, including Fabio Bragnagnolo, Who runs Cassadelmar in southern Corsica, where he garnishes the Roast Lamb with candied slices of syrupy, bitter Chinto orange.

Contemporary French food, of course, depends on the country’s special produce, terroir, and agricultural heritage, and there are similar government-run parcels for cherries in Bordeaux, alliums in Brittany and nightshades in Avignon. As public institutions, they gather as a whole, an inaccessible inaccessible place for commercial farmers who live on the verge of changing consumer tastes and profit margins. In this way, citrus preservation serves a kind of corrective function, a place where cooks can be inspired by the wildness of an entire genus, where a familiar yellow lemon grows next to its ancestors, sour orange and citron, but its The baroque is also a cousin like the blood lemon, with vivid red streaks on its peels, and a fragrant Moroccan variety with a hint of the Belgam lemon, bergamot – all of which are descendants of a few different Southeast Asian citrus trees. “You might think that you know a fruit,” says the chef Pierre with Boy, Which runs three well-known restaurants in Paris’s 11th Aerondissement. But in San Juliano, “You learn that it has a history – and you learn how nature works.”

Citrus: CRB Citrus and Citrus Breeding courtesy of INRAE ​​CIRAD



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